Puerh Rating: Red Star

Posted on by Yang-chu
20 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on the ’11 Red Star Iron Cake.  It’s one of a few Xiaguan TF (XG) productions offered.  There are so many XG productions available that I tend to venture elsewhere.  When I do venture into the XG terrain, I’m looking for something aesthetically captivating.  The Red Star certainly captivates.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma            6
  • Clarity            9
  • Sweetness     7
  • Viscosity       10
  • Astringency  14
  • Huigan           9
  • Qi                  8

Reflections

Ancient Shot

I wrote “peat” in my notes.  It comes up in reference to puerhs on occasion.  Is there any relationship to astringency?  The Red Star performs outstandingly in the astringency category.  Is “peat” the same thing I associate with soda?  Not what right-minded folks call pop.  I mean soda as in baking soda, sorta salty.

In a fairly recent post I wrote about how the Red Star Iron Cake has transformed.  One of their more popular productions is the Gold Ribbon.  What accounts for its popularity eludes me.  It doesn’t possess the smoke of some of their other Crane icon productions, I suspect.  Smoke will usually be some aspect of their offerings.  The Red Star is no exception but it doesn’t adversely affect the taste in the least.  It also transforms in a way that marks a dynamic process in the leaves.  It’s not about tastes softening but actually cooking into something unrecognizable from the outset.

Conclusions

In reviewing the results, I felt I might have been a bit overly critical on the aroma score.  This is probably because when I first got it, the aroma was at least twice as strong.  Whatever is left in my stores has been here since May of ’16.  I’ve never felt it needed punishment.

XG is an immensely interesting operation.  I’ve previously mentioned that they are still about 1/2 state owned.  Last I heard 50% of production is still reserved for Tibet.  At the time of writing here in 2020, it is a sold everyday drinker in the tobacco class, with strong soda/peat notes.  Classic XG expression, 5000X more than the Gold Ribbon.  Puerh Rating Red Star

63/105, B

Puerh Rating: AMT

Posted on by Yang-chu
20 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on the ’07 AMT, TL 100g tuo.  In my puerh junkocity, “one Tulin rating deserves another.”  The Acutal Mushroom Taste (hence AMT) tuo has been on hand since at the latest early ’16.  In contrast to the other two tuo from Tulin offered, it stands out for the absence of floral notes.  Though its notes are lower in the range, it has shown nothing of the transformative capacity of the White Tips.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          10
  • Clarity            8
  • Sweetness     7
  • Viscosity         9
  • Astringency   11
  • Huigan          11
  • Qi                    7

Reflections

The words I wrote were “bitter, vegetal, floral.”  I clearly hated this experience.  It performs well in terms of viscosity and astringency, and there is no single category in which it doesn’t perform solidly.  Hence, it is a very well rounded everyday drinker. But I didn’t taste any mushroom.

The following day I had three very solid rounds from AMT and tasted the mushroom.  Interesting.  My reaction from a day earlier contradicts the introduction regarding lack of floral taste.  I generally do not associate the AMT with being floral.  Obviously, tastes change by the day affected by diet, climate, and context.  That’s why several sessions afford a much more accurate assessment than just one or two.

Conclusions

The PJRS surprises me.  By weighing the seven variables evenly, productions with a better all around performance will score higher relative much “better” puerh productions.  Such is the case for the AMT.  “Better” might be something purely subjective, so the rating scale helps to strip away subjective preferences around taste to simply see how the tea performs in terms of attributes that have some objective basis.

The AMT is a low risk, high reward introduction to semi-aged, semi-humid raw puerh tea.  Some have found its “qi-appeal” much higher than myself.  Puerh Rating RMT:

73/105, B

Puerh Rating: Silver Pekoe

Posted on by Yang-chu
18 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on the 06 Silver Pekoe Tuo.   The Silver Pekoe is one of the most ferocious of the Puerh Junky offerings.  It also happens to be one of the oldest.  It is a Tulin TF production, which carries a solid reputation for their puerh tuos.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          12
  • Clarity           11
  • Sweetness     8
  • Viscosity         7
  • Astringency   10
  • Huigan          14
  • Qi                  10

Reflections

2020 Shot of the ’19 Purchase

Ferocious describes the Silver Pekoe, even after 14 years.  Needless to say, if you like a big bite in the mouth, then this is the tuo for you.  In terms of qi, it is also no slouch.  Now a matter of disclosure. . .

I originally purchased the SP in 2015.  At the time, it struck me as “interesting” but with a pronounced orange-juice finish that make me feel there was something wrong with the storage.  It always struck me as dynamic and sometimes the aroma was plain wicked, so I sampled it frequently, while stashing the store away in the container with extra heat and humidity to get the sour out.  The end result was nothing short of spectacular. . . after 3.5 yrs.

In 2019 I was able to source it again.  There is a considerable difference between the ’19 and ’15 that can only be attributed to differences in storage.  The most alarming difference to my sensibility is the degree of bitterness that can be detected in the ’19.  I find it a major put-off.  Second, the ’19 tastes much more petrolly and feels hotter.  This also the taste of dry wood, like in a wood shop or the taste of tequilas and whiskeys.

The outstanding huigan  of the ’19 stored is brashly floral, present instantaneously and demanding of your attention.  The ’15 stored is damp moist forest, expressing cooling and commingling alchemy.  There’s no wood or fire, just mint and roots.

Conclusions

The differences in storage are stunning, sufficient for me not recognize the same production.  It’s not just a muting of notes that occurs with the variance of conditions, so the process cannot be analogized to Davis’ use of the muffler tin or plastic when creating a mood.  This is because Davis will still hit all the notes, but storage determines largely where in the range tastes will develop.  Nothing has made this more apparently clear than the ’06 White Tips.

Whether subsequent heat and humidity deepen the range remains to be seen.  The ’19 version was reviewed and is presently the item offered.  The Puerh Junky Rating: Silver Pekoe

72/105, B

Ripe Steady: 55

Posted on by Yang-chu
10 Sep

Ripe Steady: 55 renders Kunming Tea Factory’s ’06 “55” ripe puerh cake to the Going Steady Method, GSM.  Inasmuch as it echoes of Dr. Frankenstein, never have I been more convinced of the rectitude of the GSM.

The “55” is commemorative ripe puerh, marking 55 years of the Zhongcha endeavor.  Flossed with golden buds and tagged with a big fat neifei, it is quite enticing.

This KMTF production differs from the iconic 7581.  It is more tannic and more camphorous.  As an insider note, it should be mentioned that the Puerh Junky has had this in two separate storage and possibly production batches.  The first batch was pressed much more tightly.  The second batch expresses a wood sap flair that is particular to certain ripe productions.  It is a petrol-esque taste and aroma.

Reflections

The idea behind the GSM is to make ripe puerhs taste as they actually should.  Although the variables of the PJRS are always in the back of my mind, it was not applied here.  That said, clarity came in at a five for two infusions.

Lightening.  That’s what I’d describe this as.  Both wood sap and high camphor notes express strongly, neither over powering the other, but both fierce.  Sweetness is there but the emphasis is on potent resins.

Day two the experiment proved NO better.  This might be due to it already being quite old.  Tanins expressed resolutely, as the puerh has been intentionally crafted.

Ripe Puerh?  Go Steady my friends.

Puerh Rating: Top-Notch Tuo

Posted on by Yang-chu
10 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on the ’07 Top-Notch Tuo, ZC.  This 100g raw puerh “bird’s nest” (tuo) is the first of any identically named productions.  “Top-notch” is translated from “jia–ji.”  Late 90 and early naught jia-ji are appears to be a fairly famous formulation.  Dunno whether this KMTF tuo is true to that original formulation.

Up until Jan of 2020, this tuo cha was stored in Kunming.  The outer wrapper is crisp as if it were last year’s production but the noticeable dry aroma is not in the least youthful.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          11
  • Clarity          14
  • Sweetness     9
  • Viscosity       11
  • Astringency  12
  • Huigan           6
  • Qi                   5

Reflections

The Top-Notch Tuo was only posted last month, Aug 2020.  According to the PJRS this tuo possesses exceptional clarity.  This tends to be a trademark of KMTF productions, something they take pride in.  It is also excels at being thick, smooth, and aromatic.

The tuo shape is synonymous with Xia Guan.  Those tend to be macho puerhs, smoky, minerally.  The tiny Puerh Junky stash of tuo offerings is from reputable factories, sometimes which also captured something thematically captivating.  Among them, the Top-Notch Tuo is definitely the fruitiest, next to its sister HK Returns.

68/105, B

Puerh Rating: Dragon, HM

Posted on by Yang-chu
08 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on the ’12 Dragon, HM.  The “dragon” theme features somewhat more prominently than other lunar creatures.  The Dragon features a snazzy wrapper and an even snazzier price.  Coincidentally, 2012 was the year of the Golden Dragon, an occasion once every 60 years, so it’s considered particularly lucky.

Without consulting what has been previously written, I remember this raw puerh for being sweet and spicy in the vein of the 7536.  It is easily that one could pay three times the price for it just given the complexity and richness.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          10
  • Clarity            9
  • Sweetness   11
  • Viscosity        9
  • Astringency   8*
  • Huigan         10
  • Qi                  –

The asterisk reflects an earlier working of astringency.

Reflections

This Dragon is extremely pleasant.  Vanilla, light spice, a little smoke.  Excellent daily drinker that’s sweet and produces lots of saliva.  At the time of this sampling, there was zero detectable qi, which greatly affects its final score.

There is no need to over think this raw puerh cake.  It is right around average in every category, with well better than average sweetness.  Since this assessment was when I was just beginning to work out the PJRS, it’s probably good for another five points.

57/105, C

Ripe Puerh: Going Steady

Posted on by Yang-chu
08 Sep

I started Going Steady with ripe puerh rather by accident.  I prepare a pot of ripe for my wife in the morning, repeating the process daily till the leaves are cashed.  I started doing this in earnest about six weeks ago, testing each day’s pot for the differences.

Without exception, by Going Steady the experience was better in terms of richness, sweetness, and camphor expression.

King of Camphor and Clarity.

It’s an intensified form of transformation, the pot roasting of puerh, the slow-cooking of shou, the way to get that humid feeling, yeah that humid feeling.

Did I tell you that in Malaysia the only tea they drink is puerh? Well. . . and black tea made by Indians at stalls, but if you’re served tea, it’s puerh.  The best puerh I had in Malaysia was served to me in a glass tumbler, filled about half way with no leaves.  It was light, sweet, and camphory.  The other places all served the same tasteless ink.

It was a Muslim restaurant.  All kinds of other sugary drinks to order.   No doubt that puerh had been getting TTP in the Malaysian heat– and humidity– for years.  A tumbler no less.

Here’s the deal.  I’m at the place where if a ripe does not exhibit camphor notes then I consider it substandard.  The main reason that ripes do not exhibit the camphor they should is because they have been poorly stored. . . by not living in Malaysia and by not being neglected by Muslims.  Oh, I can assure you that the Chinese have plenty of puerh safely tucked away in climate-controlled coveys and warehouses, but the neglect is what creates the stress to cultivate the qi.

The only way to solve the Malaysia Problem?  GSM: Going Steady Method.

Tread lightly into GSM by opening the leaves the evening before your morning session.  If you like the results, stop half way and start up again the following day with the same pot.  Since everyday you’re infusing the tea, you’re keeping the right microbial balance.  At the same time, all the sugars and dynamic processes hidden away by dryness get a chance to develop through a nice slow cook.

Ripe puerh? Go Steady my friends.

 

Puerh Rating: Bamboo Ripe

Posted on by Yang-chu
08 Sep

The Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) takes on 06 Bamboo Ripe.  The Bamboo Ripe is the only other humid-stored ripe puerh in the collection besides the Operation Macau.  The Bamboo is stored with a higher level of humidity.  Both express what I consider to be the absolute best that humid storage can offer without any of the distractions.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          10
  • Clarity          15
  • Sweetness   14
  • Viscosity        9
  • Astringency 14
  • Huigan         14
  • Qi                 10

The ‘06 Bamboo Ripe is a serious production.  It is possible that the aroma could have rated a shade higher but there is no doubt that it is comparatively light in texture, particularly when warm.  It is clear that this was fully the intent of the tea master.

Brewing times for this ripe are longer, as the block formed within the bamboo doesn’t separate easily even after numerous infusions.  Counterintuitively, the same block crumbles easily with  the fingers.

So far it has brewed for a total of about six infusions over three days.  Each day the camphor and sweetness intensify along with the aroma.  It is glass smooth.  An extremely well executed puerh.

Total 86/105.  A 

Puerh Rating: 14 Jade Mark

Posted on by Yang-chu
07 Sep

Here’s the first of many Puerh Junky Rating System (PJRS) entries, this time on the ’14 Jade Mark, ZC.    After the three rounds its total was as follows:

  • Aroma        10
  • Clarity         14
  • Sweetness  14
  • Viscosity     10
  • Astringency   9
  • Huigan         11
  • Qi                   8

The ’14 Jade Mark is a downright convivial young raw puerh.  Between its aging and proper brewing it produces a well above average drinking experience.  I recently heard Mozart’s piano described as sunshine.  That’s very much the Jade Mark.  Ditzy and playful, but good!

Key to ideal brewing of this production is quick infusions with water temps around 195.  Using this approach I was able to get nine flavour-packed infusions without pushing the leaves in the least.  Cooler water allows for a bit more time in the bath.  The longest bath was possibly 10 s.

Agitating the leaves with the lid in no way affected the clarity of the broth.

As far as young raws from big factories I’ve tasted, the Jade Mark is one of the best.  Compared to the Horse from the same year, it is light years sweeter.  It is perfectly good for drinking now and will only get sweeter over the next 6-10 yrs before transforming.  Find other reflections on this treasure.

Total 74/105,  B

 

Puerh Cake Take: Peacock 9611

Posted on by Yang-chu
07 Peacock 9611, CNNP
07 Sep

This Puerh Cake Take concerns the ’07 Peacock 9611, ZC.  It’s the best cake among the KMTF ’07s primarily due to its durability.  I might be able to offer this in a year, if the stars align.  Presently, it might be interesting to augment the record on ZC’s ’07 productions.  First the specs. . .

’07 Peacock 9611, Zhongcha/KMTF

Regular readers know that for me Zhongcha is the Kunming Tea Factory.  Dayi is what they are, as is Xiaguan.  The ‘07 Peacock 9611 is among at least two other Peacock productions from that year, mentioned previously.  The Thick Zen is a peacock made of large leaf Yiwu material.  The Bada Peacock is minerally and increasingly floral with each infusion.  The 9611 is decidedly floral, comprised of very small leaves and buds.

Somehow, the 9611 in my possession was stored with heavy humidity.  The cake stored here in Los Angeles for at least a year before it could be considered drinkable to my person.  It does not possess the perfect storage traits of the Yiwu Princess, but it may given a few more years.  Presently, it is still laced with a certain dankness that I wish weren’t there. A handful of drinkers covet that taste.

The numbers 9611 are clearly displayed on the wrapper.  Following the traditional logic would suggest that this formula was devised in ’96, comprised mostly of grade 1 leaf, and devised by factory #1.  Along with the neifei is a piece of gold ribbon.  The characters above the numbers descriptively read “Peacock Cake.”  The wrapper and neifei are identical.

Gold Ribbon

Tiny Leaves Tinier Gold Ribbon

Reflections

There are some attributes of KMTF productions that I generally look for, primary are Zen and broth clarity.  I do not find that in most of their productions that they’re trying to imitate the Dayi taste, as is the case with many other factories’ productions.  When I say Dayi, I think I mean 7542 and/or 7543.  It doesn’t matter.  It’s thematically much heavier.

Breaking Dawn Puerh Glimmers

KMTF tries to express something much more subtle than Dayi.  Given its storage conditions the broth is incredibly dark.

That’s a shot from Jan 2019.  Here’s another shot brewed from clay, about infusion 13.

This puerh just never bottoms out.  The floral, hint of cinnamon from wet storage, and sweetness just continue from one infusion to the next.  This shot would have been day four.  The taste of the flowers is never jagged.  The quality of experience has that glassy smoothness of the Early Spring, but everything here is kicked up a notch without any wheat or malt notes.

Contrasting Floral Puerhs

There are two kinds of floral, a macho and a genteel.  Among the macho floral, again we have the Lunar Series from 6FTM.  This is the type of floral for people who like to get knocked over the head with very loud and aggressive tea.  Lincang productions from Fengqing and Daxueshan are extremely popular, with Mengku TF probably producing some of the best grade affordable puerh out there.

By contrast, genteel florals must express all the intensity of flowers found among machos but never at the expense of smoothness and subtlety. This is where the 9611 falls, along with the other Yang puerh folks, YPH.

Final Views

The floral profile is not my favourite of puerh taste classes. The 9611 is nevertheless an excellent puerh by virtue of its durability.  Its enduring sweetness, clarity, and smoothness are all noteworthy.  The wetter storage conditions offer deeper insights into the intention behind the classic factory style craftsmanship.  It actually seems that now is the time to begin making calls about the ’07s, not when they were made ten years ago.

Amidst Puerh Junky’s stash, the 9611 is unique.  A floral wet-stored puerh that is sophisticated and smooth isn’t that common.  Aggressive storage can often rob the tea of life, but in this case I’m wondering whether the opposite applies.  Further perplexing matters is that small leaves and buds don’t usually brew that long.